Metropolitan WholesaleDracaena Arborea Care
Dracaena Arborea Care Instructions
This article will explain Dracaena Arborea care instructions. By following this guideline, you should have no problem keeping your Dracaena Arborea not only surviving, but thriving for years to come. The Dracaenas are some of the most popular indoor plants used in homes, offices and interior landscapes due to their attractive appearance and tolerance of low light and poor air circulation. Some Dracaenas such as the Refelxa or Massangeana are on NASA’s list of clean air plants because they help filter the air of harmful chemicals. It is recommended to use one plant per 100 square feet of living space to help filter chemicals such as formaldehyde and benzene from the air. Arborea are closely related to the Reflexa, Janet Craig, Lucky Bamboo, Warneckii and Massangeana Cane – also known as the Corn Plant. Dracaena is a genus of about 40 species where the majority are native to South Africa.
Varieties
Arborea are commonly grown as a tree form or in a bush form – also know as Arborea tips. We also sell Arborea with several trunks planted in one pot – known as a multi or with the plant groomed to branch for character. Generally providing a spiky, topiary look Arboreas are available in 8, 10, 12,14 and 17in pot sizes – special orders for larger sizes are available as well. The heights will vary depending on what shape that plant was groomed into, but Arboreas can reach heights over 10-15′. Arboreas provide a great alternative to a standard Marginata or Fiddle Leaf Fig in an interior or office environment with suitable lighting.
Lighting Requirements
Dracaena Arborea do best in well-lit locations such as a window sill that has an Eastern exposure. Bright indirect sunlight is optimal. Arborea can also be grown outdoors in the warmer months when there is no chance of frost. If you have less than optimal lighting available, do not worry. Dracaenas are a large family of plants and there are other varieties that have an excellent track record with tolerating very low light. Some varieties tend to do better than others in low light -Janet Craig, Warneckii, Corn Plants, Anitas and Elegance canes are all great low light Dracaena options. From our experience Arboreas are an excellent choice for a bright light environment.
Temperature Requirements
The Arborea is a great house or office plant because it prefers the same temperatures that many living situations are kept at on a daily basis. Night time temperatures in the lower 60’s and day time temperatures in the 70’s are ideal. Keep in mind that although your home or office are kept at these average temperatures, other factors may play a part in your plant being too hot or cold. Make sure that your Arborea is not directly affected by a heating or air conditioner vent. The direct cold or hot air will surely damage your plant. You also want to keep an eye on the window if you place your plant in one. On very cold days, the glass will transfer the cold – and if the leaves from your Arborea are pressed against the glass, they will become damaged. It is never a good idea to have your Arborea up against any window or wall. You will also want to avoid any drafts in colder climates. A cold gust of wind from being placed near a door or window that opens could also damage your plant.
Watering Dracaena Arborea
The most important thing to keep in mind when watering Arboreas are that you want to avoid creating a situation that promotes root rot. In our homes and offices, we keep Arborea in a light, well-draining soil. They prefer to be kept on the dryer side, but not so dry that it damages the plant. There is not specific amount or frequency of water that we can suggest because the lighting, temperature and evaporation rates differ in every home and office – but on average you probably should not be watering your Arborea more than twice per month. The quantity of water that you give the plant depends on the pot size and how dry/moist the soil is. You will need to develop a feel for the proper amount of water. Try to water at an even amount of moisture, not letting your plant get soaking wet and then allowing it to completely dry out. Do not let water accumulate in the crown or cups that the leaves. Moderation is key. Any planter that allows for evaporation, air flow and water drainage works well. Once you develop the “feel” for watering, you will be able to judge when to water by picking up the plant. The heavier the plant feels, the more moisture there is in the growing medium. If the plant is too large to lift, a water meter is well worth the investment.
Are Your Plants Leaf Tips Turning Brown?
A common problem with Arborea and almost all indoor houseplants is what we call “tipping” or simply the tips of the leaves drying out and turning brown. This can be caused by a number of factors including over-watering, chemical burn from too much fertilizer, Root rot and dry stagnant air. Probably the most common reason your plant is tipping could be in the tap water. Tap water contains salts, chlorine, minerals and fluoride – all of which can build up in the soil of your plant causing the tips of the leaves to burn and turn brown. One way you can reduce this is to use a water filtration system. If you do not have a filtration system available, leaving he water in an open container overnight before using can help relieve some of the chlorine.
Fertilizing Dracaena Arborea
Do house plant fertilizers work? Definitely. Arborea, like every other living thing need a source of energy. The plants take in their nutrients from the light, water and potting medium they are planted in. That medium only holds so much, and when the nutrients are depleted, fertilizer is the only source left. People who grow house plants without repotting and fertilizing regularly are essentially starving the plants and holding them back from their full potential. There are many different fertilizers on the market and they come in many forms. There are water soluble fertilizers, ready to use liquid, liquid concentrate, fertilizer spikes, time release granules and many others. Which fertilizer works best? That is up for you to decide. We prefer a ready to use liquid simply for the convenience of use. We also dilute the fertilizer and use every time we water so there is a constant stream of nutrients being fed to the plants.
Dracaena Arborea Disease and Insects
Dracaena Arborea are not often susceptible to insect infestation when grown indoors. The most common problems that can occur though are mealy bugs and scale. Both of these issues can be resolved quite easily if spotted early and treated properly. In most cases, a simple treatment of insecticidal soap or a solution of rubbing alcohol and water will do the trick. If you are having problems with your Arborea and not sure of the right solution, contact us and we will be happy to provide the best product for your issue.
Do you have a question about Dracaena Arborea or any other plant that was not answered here? Please feel free to contact us at 201-794-4747 and speak with one of our knowledgeable staff members. We would be happy to help.
We are New Jersey’s and NYC’s premier source for wholesale tropical plants and cut flowers. We specialize in orders for hard to find plants and cut flowers.
Schefflera Arboricola Care
Schefflera Arboricola Care Instructions
This article will explain the basic procedures for Schefflera Arboricola care – also commonly known as the umbrella plant. By following these instructions, you should have no problem keeping your Schefflera Arboricola not only surviving, but thriving for years to come. The Schefflera are some of the most commonly seen plants in offices and interior landscapes due to their ease of care and wide range of shapes and sizes. Schefflera are closely related to the Aralia and can also be grown outdoors as long as there is no danger of a frost. Schefflera are also fast growers and respond well to pruning.
Varieties
There are several varieties of Schefflera that are cultivated for indoor landscapes. They include the Amate, which is one of the larger leaf varieties. The dwarf versions include Arboricola, Gold Capella, Trinette and Dazzle. The differences are generally in the shape of the foliage and the variegation of the leaves. Schefflera are sold in every size pot including 4,6,8,10,12,14,17 and even 21″ pots. They generally can be found groomed to bush shapes, canes, stumps, open weave topiary and even grown on a pyramid frame. Schefflera can reach over 10′ in height, however – it may take years to reach maximum size when grown indoors. Schefflera are also commonly cultivated as Indoor Bonsai. Their tendency to grow aerial roots and their tolerance with heavy pruning make them great specimen Bonsai.
Schefflera Amate Bush
Lighting Requirements
Schefflera do best in well-lit locations such as a window sill that has an Eastern exposure. Bright but indirect sunlight is optimal. Be careful not to put your Schefflera in full sun because in many cases the plant will burn and the leaves will be damaged in a similar way that people get sunburn. If you have less than optimal lighting available, some of the solid green leaf varieties tend to adapt to medium light situations. When relocated to a new area it is common for Schefflera to drop a few leaves during their acclimation period. This is normal and will stabilize once the plant is adjusted to it’s new surroundings. Schefflera are also fast growers and respond to pruning well. If you feel that your plant is growing too “leggy” a good cutback will help the plant fill in with new growth creating a bushier form.
Temperature Requirements
The Schefflera prefers the same temperatures that many homes are kept at on a daily basis. Night time temperatures in the lower 60’s and day time temperatures in the 70’s are ideal. Keep in mind that although your home or office are kept at these average temperatures, other factors may play a part in your plant being too hot or cold. Make sure that your Schefflera is not directly affected by a heating or air conditioner vent. The direct cold or hot air will surely damage your plant. You also want to keep an eye on the window if you place your plant in or near one. On very cold days, the glass will transfer the cold – and if the leaves from your Schefflera are pressed against the glass, they will become damaged. It is never a good idea to have your plant up against any window or wall. You will also want to avoid any drafts in colder climates. A cold gust of wind from being placed near a door or window that opens could also damage your plant.
Schefflera Arboricola Bush
Watering Schefflera Arboricola
The most important thing to keep in mind when watering Schefflera are that you want to avoid creating a situation that promotes root rot. In our homes and offices, we keep Schefflera in a light, well-draining soil. They prefer to be kept on the moist side, but not so wet that it damages the plant. Schefflera are fairly drought tolerant, so if you are not sure of the watering it may be better to under-water than over do it. There is not specific amount or frequency of water that we can suggest because the lighting, temperature and evaporation rates differ in every location. You will need to develop a feel for the proper amount of water. Try to water at an even amount of moisture, not letting your plant get soaking wet and then allowing it to completely dry out. Do not let water accumulate in the crown or cups that the leaves. Overwatering your Schefflera could result in the plant dropping a significant amount of leaves. Moderation is key. Any planter that allows for evaporation, air flow and water drainage works well. Once you develop the “feel” for watering, you will be able to judge when to water by picking up the plant. The heavier the plant feels, the more moisture there is in the growing medium. If the plant is too large to lift, a water meter is well worth the investment.
Are Your Plants Leaf Tips Turning Brown?
A common problem with Schefflera and almost all indoor houseplants is what we call “tipping” or simply the tips of the leaves drying out and turning brown. This can be caused by a number of factors including over-watering, chemical burn from too much fertilizer, Root rot and dry stagnant air. Probably the most common reason your plant is tipping could be in the tap water. Tap water contains salts, chlorine, minerals and fluoride – all of which can build up in the soil of your plant causing the tips of the leaves to burn and turn brown. One way you can reduce this is to use a water filtration system. If you do not have a filtration system available, leaving he water in an open container overnight before using can help relieve some of the chlorine.
Fertilizing Schefflera Arboricola
Do house plant fertilizers work? Definitely. Schefflera, like every other living thing need a source of energy. The plants take in their nutrients from the water and potting medium they are planted in. That medium only holds so much, and when the nutrients are depleted, fertilizer is the only source left. People who grow house plants without repotting and fertilizing regularly are essentially starving the plants and holding them back from their full potential. There are many different fertilizers on the market and they come in many forms. There are water soluble fertilizers, ready to use liquid, liquid concentrate, fertilizer spikes, time release granules and many others. Which fertilizer works best? That is up for you to decide. We prefer a ready to use liquid simply for the convenience of use. We also dilute the fertilizer and use a small amount every time we water so there is a constant stream of nutrients being fed to the plants.
Schefflera Arbicola Disease and Insects
Schefflera Arboricola are susceptible to insect infestation when grown indoors. The most common problems that can occur are aphids, mealy bugs and spider mites. All of these issues can be resolved quite easily if spotted early and treated properly. In most cases, a simple treatment of insecticidal soap or a solution of rubbing alcohol and water will do the trick. If you are having problems with your Aralia and not sure of the right solution, contact us and we will be happy to provide the best product for your issue.
Do you have a question about Schefflera Arboricola or any other plant that was not answered here? Please feel free to contact us at 201-794-4747 and speak with one of our knowledgeable staff members. We would be happy to help.
We are New Jersey’s and NYC’s premier source for wholesale tropical plants and cut flowers. We specialize in orders for hard to find plants and cut flowers.
Balfour Aralia Care
Balfour Aralia Care
Balfour Aralia Cane
Balfour Aralia Care Instructions
Many people ask us for the proper care of the Balfour Aralia- a member of the family Polyscias. By following these instructions, you should have no problem keeping your Balfour Aralia not only surviving, but thriving for years to come. The Aralias are some of the most sought after, interesting and unique plants used in homes, offices and interior landscapes due to their attractive appearance and scarcity on todays plant market. Aralias beauty comes with a price, as these plants are not one of the easiest to care for. Aralias originate from South East Asia and the Tropical Islands of the Pacific.
Varieties
There are several varieties of Aralias that are cultivated for indoor landscapes. They include the Balfour, Chicken Gizzard, Ming and Parsley. The differences are generally in the shape of the foliage. Some of these varieties are also available with a variegated leaf. Aralias are sold in every size pot including 4,6,8,10,12,14,17 and even 21″ pots. They generally can be found groomed to bush shapes, canes and stumps. Aralias can reach over 10′ in height, however – it may take years to reach maximum size when grown indoors.
Lighting Requirements
Aralias do best in well-lit locations such as a window sill that has an Eastern exposure. Bright but indirect sunlight is optimal. Be careful not to put your Aralia in full sun because in many cases the plant will burn and the leaves will be damaged in a similar way that people get sunburn. If you have less than optimal lighting available, we recommend choosing a different plant. Balfour Aralia have a low tolerance for less than optimal lighting conditions. In most cases, artificial lighting such as in a windowless office will not be enough. From our experience Aralias are an excellent choice for bright light situations.
Temperature Requirements
The Aralia prefers the same temperatures that many homes are kept at on a daily basis. Night time temperatures in the lower 60’s and day time temperatures in the 70’s are ideal. Keep in mind that although your home or office are kept at these average temperatures, other factors may play a part in your plant being too hot or cold. Make sure that your Aralia is not directly affected by a heating or air conditioner vent. The direct cold or hot air will surely damage your plant. You also want to keep an eye on the window if you place your plant in or near one. On very cold days, the glass will transfer the cold – and if the leaves from your Anita are pressed against the glass, they will become damaged. It is never a good idea to have your Aralia up against any window or wall. You will also want to avoid any drafts in colder climates. A cold gust of wind from being placed near a door or window that opens could also damage your plant.
Watering Balfour Aralias
The most important thing to keep in mind when watering Aralias are that you want to avoid creating a situation that promotes root rot. In our homes and offices, we keep Aralias in a light, well-draining soil. They prefer to be kept on the dryer side, but not so dry that it damages the plant. There is not specific amount or frequency of water that we can suggest because the lighting, temperature and evaporation rates differ in every location. You will need to develop a feel for the proper amount of water. Try to water at an even amount of moisture, not letting your plant get soaking wet and then allowing it to completely dry out. Do not let water accumulate in the crown or cups that the leaves. Overwatering your Aralia could result in the plant dropping a significant amount of leaves. Moderation is key. Any planter that allows for evaporation, air flow and water drainage works well. Once you develop the “feel” for watering, you will be able to judge when to water by picking up the plant. The heavier the plant feels, the more moisture there is in the growing medium. If the plant is too large to lift, a water meter is well worth the investment.
Are Your Plants Leaf Tips Turning Brown?
A common problem with Aralias and almost all indoor houseplants is what we call “tipping” or simply the tips of the leaves drying out and turning brown. This can be caused by a number of factors including over-watering, chemical burn from too much fertilizer, Root rot and dry stagnant air. Probably the most common reason your plant is tipping could be in the tap water. Tap water contains salts, chlorine, minerals and fluoride – all of which can build up in the soil of your plant causing the tips of the leaves to burn and turn brown. One way you can reduce this is to use a water filtration system. If you do not have a filtration system available, leaving he water in an open container overnight before using can help relieve some of the chlorine.
Fertilizing Balfour Aralias
Do house plant fertilizers work? Definitely. Aralias, like every other living thing need a source of energy. The plants take in their nutrients from the water and potting medium they are planted in. That medium only holds so much, and when the nutrients are depleted, fertilizer is the only source left. People who grow house plants without repotting and fertilizing regularly are essentially starving the plants and holding them back from their full potential. There are many different fertilizers on the market and they come in many forms. There are water soluble fertilizers, ready to use liquid, liquid concentrate, fertilizer spikes, time release granules and many others. Which fertilizer works best? That is up for you to decide. We prefer a ready to use liquid simply for the convenience of use. We also dilute the fertilizer and use a small amount every time we water so there is a constant stream of nutrients being fed to the plants.
Balfour Aralia Disease and Insects
Balfour Aralias are susceptible to insect infestation when grown indoors. The most common problems that can occur are aphids, mealy bugs and spider mites. All of these issues can be resolved quite easily if spotted early and treated properly. In most cases, a simple treatment of insecticidal soap or a solution of rubbing alcohol and water will do the trick. If you are having problems with your Aralia and not sure of the right solution, contact us and we will be happy to provide the best product for your issue.
Do you have a question about Balfour Aralias or any other plant that was not answered here? Please feel free to contact us at 201-794-4747 and speak with one of our knowledgeable staff members. We would be happy to help.
We are New Jersey’s and NYC’s premier source for wholesale tropical plants and cut flowers. We specialize in orders for hard to find plants and cut flowers.
Dracaena Anita Care
Dracaena Anita Care Instructions
Many people ask us for the proper care of the Anita plant- a member of the huge family of Dracaenas. By following these instructions, you should have no problem keeping your Dracaena Anita not only surviving, but thriving for years to come. The Dracaenas are some of the most popular indoor plants used in homes, offices and interior landscapes due to their attractive appearance and tolerance of low light and poor air circulation. Some Dracaenas such as the Refelxa or Massangeana are on NASA’s list of clean air plants because they help filter the air of harmful chemicals. It is recommended to use one plant per 100 square feet of living space to help filter chemicals such as formaldehyde and benzene from the air. Anitas are closely related to the Reflexa, Janet Craig, Warneckii and Massangeana Cane.
Varieties
Anitas are a relatively newer variety as Dracaenas go. They are available as a bush, topiary form with single or braided trunks, also as a staggered cane. Generally providing a thick and dense form, Anitas are available in 4, 6, 8, 10, 12,14 and 17in pot sizes. The heights will vary depending on what shape that plant was groomed into. Anitas provide a great alternative to a standard Janet Craig or Corn Plant in an interior or office environment.
Anita Standard Topiary Form
Lighting Requirements
Dracaena Anitas do best in well-lit locations such as a window sill that has an Eastern exposure. Bright but indirect sunlight is optimal. Be careful not to put your Anita in full sun because in many cases the plant will burn and the leaves will be damaged in a similar way that people get sunburn. If you have less than optimal lighting available, do not worry. Dracaena Anita has an excellent track record with tolerating very low light. In most cases, artificial lighting such as in a windowless office proves enough for this tough plant. Some varieties tend to do better than others in low light. From our experience Anitas are an excellent choice for a challenging situation.
Temperature Requirements
The Anita is one of the best house plants because it prefers the same temperatures that many homes are kept at on a daily basis. Night time temperatures in the lower 60’s and day time temperatures in the 70’s are ideal. Keep in mind that although your home or office are kept at these average temperatures, other factors may play a part in your plant being too hot or cold. Make sure that your Anita is not directly affected by a heating or air conditioner vent. The direct cold or hot air will surely damage your plant. You also want to keep an eye on the window if you place your plant in one. On very cold days, the glass will transfer the cold – and if the leaves from your Anita are pressed against the glass, they will become damaged. It is never a good idea to have your Anita up against any window or wall. You will also want to avoid any drafts in colder climates. A cold gust of wind from being placed near a door or window that opens could also damage your plant.
Watering Dracaena Anita
The most important thing to keep in mind when watering Anitas are that you want to avoid creating a situation that promotes root rot. In our homes and offices, we keep Anitas in a light, well-draining soil. They prefer to be kept on the dryer side, but not so dry that it damages the plant. There is not specific amount or frequency of water that we can suggest because the lighting, temperature and evaporation rates differ in every home. You will need to develop a feel for the proper amount of water. Try to water at an even amount of moisture, not letting your plant get soaking wet and then allowing it to completely dry out. Do not let water accumulate in the crown or cups that the leaves. Moderation is key. Any planter that allows for evaporation, air flow and water drainage works well. Once you develop the “feel” for watering, you will be able to judge when to water by picking up the plant. The heavier the plant feels, the more moisture there is in the growing medium. If the plant is too large to lift, a water meter is well worth the investment.
Are Your Plants Leaf Tips Turning Brown?
A common problem with Anitas and almost all indoor houseplants is what we call “tipping” or simply the tips of the leaves drying out and turning brown. This can be caused by a number of factors including over-watering, chemical burn from too much fertilizer, Root rot and dry stagnant air. Probably the most common reason your plant is tipping could be in the tap water. Tap water contains salts, chlorine, minerals and fluoride – all of which can build up in the soil of your plant causing the tips of the leaves to burn and turn brown. One way you can reduce this is to use a water filtration system. If you do not have a filtration system available, leaving he water in an open container overnight before using can help relieve some of the chlorine.
Fertilizing Dracaena Anitas
Do house plant fertilizers work? Definitely. Anitas, like every other living thing need a source of energy. The plants take in their nutrients from the water and potting medium they are planted in. That medium only holds so much, and when the nutrients are depleted, fertilizer is the only source left. People who grow house plants without repotting and fertilizing regularly are essentially starving the plants and holding them back from their full potential. There are many different fertilizers on the market and they come in many forms. There are water soluble fertilizers, ready to use liquid, liquid concentrate, fertilizer spikes, time release granules and many others. Which fertilizer works best? That is up for you to decide. We prefer a ready to use liquid simply for the convenience of use. We also dilute the fertilizer and use every time we water so there is a constant stream of nutrients being fed to the plants.
Do you have a question about Dracaena Anita or any other plant that was not answered here? Please feel free to contact us at 201-794-4747 and speak with one of our knowledgeable staff members. We would be happy to help.
We are New Jersey’s and NYC’s premier source for wholesale tropical plants and cut flowers. We specialize in orders for hard to find plants and cut flowers.
Upselling Customers
Upselling Flowers
Everyday at the shop means opportunities for upselling, but during the holidays, those opportunities increase tenfold. Make sure you’re primed and ready to maximize the sales potential of every customer. Did you know that you already have the most powerful tool to do so? Your voice! It’s not only what you say, but also how you say it that influences your sales-counter success.
Don’t Ask I often hear staff present price as a question, “That’s going to be $50, is that OK?” or “That’ll be $78.99 with delivery, is that OK?” Ouch! I don’t think I’ve ever had a Macy’s salesperson ring me up and ask, “If that’s OK?” The price is a statement, not a question — otherwise you’re subtly telling a customer she can negotiate the cost of an item. When training flower-shop employees, I hold up a piece of paper, point to someone in the group and ask her name. I show trainees (by drawing) that the name — “Sally Jo Salesperson” — registers as three flat lines, fol- lowed by a period because it’s a fact that it’s her name.
When I repeat her name while raising my voice — turning it into a question — I ask the group if they’d believe that was her name if she was just introducing herself to them. I joke that if I only heard “Sally Jo Salesperson?” I’d won- der if she were in the witness protection program — since she asked her name instead of stating it! This is a good visual sales exercise to demonstrate to staff during your next meeting/training session.
Powerful Phrases In addition to using your voice as a tool, two powerful phrases can enhance your sales presentation: “I’d recom- mend choosing” or “I’d suggest spending $XX.” For example, if a customer orders flowers for her parents’ 30th wedding anniversary, the salesperson might say, “Wow, 30 years — that’s great! I’d suggest sending our larger arrangement, perfect for the kitchen or dining room table, for $XX.” When you use these low-key, non-threatening lines, you position yourself as the educated expert, offering the appropriate item and price! The customer follows your lead — and if you sound confident and sure, the sales will be quicker and bigger — I know from 11 years of experience!
The Bottom Line: prepare your staff for the holiday rush by demonstrating that when they set the tone, cus- tomers will respond positively!
This article was provided by:
Tim Huckabee AIFSE, President of FloralStrategies
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