Gray Wedding Flowers Are The Color Scheme To Watch This Year
As 2013 has come to a close, the new year is sure to be full of newly engaged couples, planning their dream weddings! Brides will be coming to you with tons of flower ideas, some of which may include some untraditional and creative color schemes.
Currently trending in wedding flowers are subtle, neutral tones, gray being the most popular. Gray is a wonderful neutral shade for designing elegant and sophisticated wedding flowers with a modern twist. Today, many brides are envisioning gray, but don’t know of all the floral possibilities. It is so easy to add a gray accent to any bouquet, boutonniere, centerpiece, etc. The most sought after gray blooms include dusty miller, brunia berry, silver English lavender, eucalyptus, seeded eucalyptus, thistle, and succulents. Even white anemones with a light black center allow for a delicate pop of gray. The best thing about the gray floral trend, is that it can be done all year round with a number of wedding themes. For a winter wedding, brunia is ideal. These festive gray berries compliment all colors and types of flowers. Pair these with white anemones and roses, holiday greenery and accents like pine cones and cotton for texture.
How about a garden chic style wedding in the spring? Add eucalyptus and silver English lavender to peach garden roses, pink ranunculus, lavender freesia, wax flower, and queen anne’s lace for a sweet, “picked from the garden look.”
Next, a few ideas for summer grays. For a romantic, vintage style, start with white peonies or hydrangea, soft pink spray roses, peach stock, copper cymbidium orchids, and light pink astilbe. Then, add gray with dusty miller and seeded eucalyptus. For late summer and autumn weddings, try using succulents. Different sizes of gray succulents
pair perfectly with deep gem tones. Use flowers like hydrangea, stock, calla lilies, delphinium, and dahlias in deep blues and purples, fuchsia, and burgundy. However, of all these color schemes to coordinate with gray, the most popular are colors are purple and yellow, and you can expect that they will still be trending in 2014.
Brides love purple and gray for their wedding flowers, because there are so many options. From the lightest shades of lavender to the darkest tones of magenta, there are not many flowers that do not come in a shade of purple. (All of which, look beautiful with gray.) If you are working with a bride on a tight budget, suggest different shades of purple carnations and mums with dusty miller. When a bride is looking to really impress her
guests, recommend different purple orchids, fuchsia or hot pink mini calla lilies, and gray succulents for a bouquet with a wow factor! Yellow and gray flowers are prefect for a edgy, modern wedding. A vibrant yellow
bouquet of ranunculus, freesia, and roses looks fabulous with gray tones of brunia and dusty miller. If your bride prefers mostly gray with just a little pop of color, combine succulents, seeded eucalyptus, white anemones with light black centers, and just a few small yellow blooms. You can also be incorporate yellow and gray into a more simple, rustic wedding. Think about creating a country bouquet of sunflowers, monte casino daisies, craspedia, thistle and seeded eucalyptus.
Of course, all of these ideas are not just limited to bridal bouquets. Try these flower combinations for ceremony decor, boutonnieres, corsages, centerpieces of all sizes and even everyday flower arrangements. Also consider suggesting gray foliage to brides who do not prefer bright greenery. Replacing typical wedding greenery with lighter grays, adds a great deal of sophistication to any bouquet or floral decoration.
Contact us today to see what we have to offer in gray wedding flowers 201-794-4747
Phalaenopsis Orchid Care Instructions
Many people ask us for the proper care of the Phalaenopsis Orchid. By following these instructions, you should have no problem keeping your orchid thriving and blooming for years to come. The Phalaenopsis Orchid is by far the most popular orchid for growing in the house due to their long bloom life and ease of growth. The common name of the Phalaenopsis is the Moth Orchid, and when you see the appearance of the flower you will know why. Phalaenopsis Orchids are grown in a vast array of colors. Pure white with a touch of yellow in the lip is the most common, but we have seen them in all shades of purple, lavender, peach, burgundy, black and yellows. There are even spotted and striped varieties. We keep dozens of Phalaenopsis in stock, so please contact us to find out which colors are currently available.
Phalaenopsis do best in well-lit locations such as a window sill that has an Eastern exposure. Bright but indirect sunlight is optimal. Be careful not to put your orchid in full sun because in many cases the plant will burn and the leaves will be damaged in a similar way that people get sunburn. If you live in a warmer climate, or during the late spring and summer in the North East, many people move their orchids outdoors for some fresh air. Orchids do well outdoors but make sure that the plant is placed in the shade. If you do not have enough light, the orchid will not be able to grow to its full potential and it may not even survive. It is Ok to enjoy a Phalaenopsis in a lower light location temporarily while it is in bloom (such as a windowless office or dining room) but be sure to place the plant back in its bright light location as soon as possible. A Phalaenopsis that is getting too much sun is going to develop a light green or yellow appearance to the leaves. On the other side, an orchid that is not getting enough light will develop a dark green color to the foliage.
The Phalaenopsis Orchid is one of the best home grown orchids because it prefers the same temperatures that many homes are kept at on a daily basis. Night time temperatures in the lower 60’s and day time temperatures in the 70’s are ideal. Keep in mind that although your home or office are kept at these average temperatures, other factors may play a part in your orchid being too hot or cold. Make sure that your orchid is not directly affected by a heating or air conditioner vent. The direct cold or hot air will surely damage your orchid. You also want to keep an eye on the window if you place your orchid in one. On very cold days, the glass will transfer the cold – and if the leaves from your orchid are pressed against the glass, they will become damaged. It is never a good idea to have your orchid up against any window or wall. You will also want to avoid any drafts in colder climates. A cold gust of wind from being placed near a door or window that opens could also damage your orchid.
Watering Phalaenopsis Orchids
The most important thing to keep in mind when watering a Phalaenopsis is that in nature, these orchids grow on trees in a tropical region. The roots collect humidity from the air and not from soil. In our homes or offices, we keep the orchids in sphagnum moss or bark chips to simulate their natural environment. Phalaenopsis prefer to be kept moist but not wet to the point where they can become susceptible to root rot. There is not specific amount or frequency of water that we can suggest because the lighting, temperature and evaporation rates differ in every home. You will need to develop a feel for the proper amount of water. Try to keep an even amount of moisture, not letting your orchid stay soaking wet and not allowing it to completely dry out. Do not let water accumulate in the crown or cups that the leaves create. Moderation is key. Also keeping your Phalaenopsis in a clay pot or a pot with several drainage holes will allow good air flow and less water retention. Some people choose to grow their orchids in wooden crates. Any planter that allows for evaporation, air flow and water drainage works well. Once you develop the “feel” for watering, you will be able to judge when to water by picking up the plant. The heavier the plant feels, the more moisture there is in the growing medium. Humidity also plays a major role in the health of Phalaenopsis. Again, remember that in nature, these plants get their moisture from the humidity in the air. We highly recommend that you grow your orchid on a humidity tray. If you do not have a humidity tray, they are easy enough to improvise. A simple baking sheet with a layer of gravel or stone will do the trick. Keep the tray filled with water below the height of the stones. Place your potted orchid on top of the stones so they are not touching the water. As the water in the tray evaporates, the Phalaenopsis will reap the humidity benefits of the evaporating water. Recently there is a trend of marketing Phalaenopsis as a plant that can be watered with ice cubes. We do not suggest using this as a surefire way to care for your plant. In our opinion, this is a quick fix way to care for your plant and generally will not be the appropriate amount of water. No amount of ice cubes can substitute a good education on Phalaenopsis Orchid care.
Cutting Off Phalaenopsis Flower Spikes
A common question that we are asked is what to do with the flower spike after the blooms have lived out their cycle. You have a couple of options of what to do. If the stem is drying up, shriveling and turning yellow, simply cut the stem off at the lowest part closest to the base of the leaves. If the stem is still strong and green but no longer has any flowers, you can leave the stem alone. In many cases the stem will branch out again from one of the segments along the spike. You could get a whole new set of flowers from the new branch. Sometimes the stem will begin to grow a “pup” plant. This pup plant is one of the ways that Phalaenopsis reproduce. The pup will grow leaves and eventually roots will cascade from the stem. At this point it is safe to remove the pup from the mother plant and give it its own pot. Some people choose to cut the healthy stem before it dries out, re-blooms or creates a pup – in order to allow the orchid to focus its energy on producing new roots, leaves or even a new flower spike.
Repotting Phalaenopsis Orchids
Repotting your Phalaenopsis is one of the most important things that you need to do to insure a healthy plant. Orchids are usually planted in sphagnum moss, fir bark or an orchid blend potting mix. These mediums tend to break down rather quickly, so repotting should be done roughly once per year. You will want to start by choosing a new planter for your orchid. The pot or planter should be slightly larger, roughly one inch in diameter. The new pot should also be made of a material that is porous or breathes, such as terracotta. A good option are pots that have holes placed randomly around the pot to allow air circulation. You will want to carefully remove the orchid from its old container and shake out any old planting medium or moss. Take a close look at the roots. With a sharp knife or scissors, remove any roots that appear dead, rotted or shriveled up. You don’t want any old or dead roots festering at the base of your new planting. Place a layer of the new orchid medium at the base of the new planter. Sphagnum moss and fir bark are good choices. We prefer an “orchid mix” which generally contains pine bark, fir bark, sphagnum moss and charcoal. Finally, center the orchid in the new pot and carefully pack your planting medium around the sides and top of the orchid. Timing is also important when repotting a Phalaenopsis. The ideal time to repot is after the blooms and spike have died off. Usually short after, the orchid will go into a growth phase when it begins to grow a new leaf from the center of the plant. We never suggest repotting an orchid when it is in bloom. The plant can go into shock and the blooms and buds can die.
Getting Phalaenopsis To Bloom Again
Re-blooming your Phalaenopsis can be one of the more challenging parts of growing them. Even with ideal conditions and care sometimes orchids can be stubborn about producing more flowers. We find that keeping a cooler average temperature – around mid 60’s, can push the orchid to produce a new flower spike. Generally orchids produce a flower spike after the cycle where it produces new roots and leaves. There are also a few products out that you add to your watering cycle to help the orchid flower. These bloom promoting products encourage plants to produce flower spikes by giving them the fertilizer they need to do so. From our experience, they work well and should definitely be taken into consideration if you are having trouble getting your Phalaenopsis back into flower.
Fertilizing Phalaenopsis Orchids
Do orchid fertilizers work? Definitely. Orchids, like every other living thing need a source of energy. The orchids take in their nutrients from the water and potting medium they are planted in. That medium only holds so much, and when the nutrients are depleted, fertilizer is the only source left. People who grow orchids without repotting and fertilizing regularly are essentially starving the orchids and holding them back from their full potential. There are many different orchid fertilizers on the market and they come in many forms. There are water soluble fertilizers, ready to use liquid, liquid concentrate, fertilizer spikes, time release granules and many others. They have also recently come out with a “mist” form or orchid fertilizer. Which orchid fertilizer works best? That is up for you to decide. We prefer a ready to use liquid simply for the convenience of use.
Are Buds Falling Off Your Phalaenopsis Orchid?
One of the most common problems that people experience with Phalaenopsis orchids is an issue commonly referred to as “bud blast”. Bud blast is when the orchid produces buds that never turn into flowers. Instead, they turn yellow and drop from the plant before they have a chance to open. Many factors can cause bud blast. Overwatering is the most common but the plant being too dry could be an issue as well. An insect such as spider mite can cause bud blast as well as temperature extremes. Bud blast can also be caused by stress or lack of fertilization. Was the plant recently purchased and shipped in a box? Sometimes simply moving the orchid from one place to another can stress the plant into dropping its buds. The good thing about bud blast is that it is a problem that is easily solved. Read through this explanation of orchid care and make yourself a checklist. One or more of the contributing factors can be narrowed down and you can rid yourself of this issue.
During the holidays season, Poinsettias seem to be almost everywhere. They are the hallmark plant of Christmas and can be found in many homes – but do you really know how to care for poinsettias properly? This article will arm you with all you need to know to keep your poinsettia alive and well long after the jingle bells have stopped ringing..
What Type Of Light Do Poinsettias Need?
Poinsettias do best in a bright location with indirect sunlight. We suggest near a window or anywhere that has a fair amount of natural light. Be careful not to place your poinsettia in full sun as they may burn. Being close to a window can have it’s dangers too. Make sure that you do not place your poinsettia against a glass door or window which can transfer the cold from outside.
What Temperature Should A Poinsettia Be Kept?
Despite being the most popular winter season flowering plant, the poinsettia is considered tropical. Poinsettias do not like the cold! They should be kept in areas where the temperature is between 55 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Moderation is the key..Keeping a poinsettia close to a heater or heating vent can burn or dry your plant out. Be careful not to place your poinsettia near a door or window which creates a draft either.. Even a gust of cold wind can damage your plant. For that reason, make sure when you take your poinsettia home from the store, it is wrapped well in a paper or plastic sleeve and is not left in the unheated car.
How Much Water Does A Poinsettia Need?
With watering a poinsettia, moderation is again the key. Water your plant thoroughly and be sure that all excess water drains out of the pot. If it is a smaller plant, you can move it to the sink – for larger plants a saucer or drip tray is appropriate. We suggest watering a poinsettia directly onto the top of the soil as opposed to pouring water over the leaves and flowers. Many poinsettias are sold with a “hat” or pot cover which is the plastic decorative wrap over the grower’s pot. If you poinsettia is fitted with a pot cover, make sure that water does not collect inside. You do not want the plant to be sitting in standing water. You will want to water your poinsettia again when the soil becomes dry to the touch. You may want to dig down into the soil a bit to make sure it is drying all the way through. Sometimes, just the top layer of soil will dry out due to evaporation, while the soil at the bottom of the pot is still soaked. With experience, you will be able to feel the weight of the plant when you lift it up. Plants that need water tend to be lighter. If you still uncertain of how much and when to water a poinsettia, purchasing a water meter is a great investment. You push the water meter probe down into the soil and it gives you a reading of the moister level in the pot. Water meters can also be used for your other houseplants. Please keep in mind that watering is always a judgment call as all plants have different watering needs based on their location, lighting and temperature.
Are Poinsettias poisonous?
The tales you hear about poinsettias being deadly poisonous are greatly inflated. The milky sap found inside the poinsettia is usually the concern even though it is not seriously toxic. It does contain similar properties to latex, so people with latex allergies should be aware. Poinsettias are not meant for consumption – but if they were eaten by human or animal, there is a good chance that they would cause a mild stomach ache, nausea or diarrhea. You could expect much the same if any other ornamental house plant was eaten.
Follow these instructions and you should have no problems taking care of your poinsettia through the holiday season and beyond. Do you have a question that was not answered here? Feel free to contact us and we would be happy to answer it you.
Metropolitan Wholesale is your source if you are looking to buy wholesale calcium chloride ice melt this winter. We wholesale Peladow 50lb bags of pellets and flakes. Ideal for landscapers, building mangers, homes and commercial use – Peladow calcium chloride ice melt is the best choice to get the job done quickly and effectively. When used on sidewalks, driveways and parking lots, calcium chloride melts ice up to 3 times faster than other products. It penetrates the ice and creates a bond with the pavement that allows for easy removal of ice and snow.
We sell calcium chloride pellets in 50lb bags, by the bag or by the pallet. We have a convenient pick up location in Saddle Brook, New Jersey and we also offer delivery for larger orders. By catering to landscapers, construction companies, schools, municipalities, commercial buildings and snow removal companies, we are able to distribute calcium chloride in large quantities and pass the savings on to the end user. So whether you need a single bag or several pallets, Metropolitan Wholesale is your source for Peladow Calcium Chloride this winter.
We also wholesale bundled kiln dried firewood, snow shovels, work gloves and many other supplies to make the winter as easy as possible. Please feel free to contact us for pricing on all of your winter snow removal supplies. We are open 7 days a week.
Tropical Bonsai As Gifts And Tropical Bonsai Care
In an earlier blog, I described the cultivation of the most popular bonsai, the Juniper Bonsai. But there are dozens and dozens of other plant species that are bonsaied that are equally rewarding and often much easier for the beginner to succeed with. Many of these are Tropical Bonsai, that is, species of dwarf trees and shrubs that grow in warm, tropical parts of the world. The advantage of growing these types of bonsai is that they can be grown indoors all year long at room temperatures with out a winter’s cooling rest. This takes much of the guess work out growing truly beautiful specimens. I will discuss just a few of the hundreds of varieties grown, concentrating on the most popular and the most available.
I think if I were going to give a tropical bonsai as a gift, I would probably choose a dwarf ficus or a dwarf Schefflera. The Ficus varieties, such as Ficus retusa, are not really dwarfs in nature, but have small leaves and can be kept miniaturized by restricting the roots and pruning the stems and branches. Even the common Ficus benjamina and it’s many cultivars are often bonsaied. The Schcfflera arboricola is also a large plant in nature, but has much smaller leaves than the other types. Both Ficus and Schefflera form nice, interesting caudexes at a young age, replicating tree trunks in a small size. But the fact that they look like little old trees at a very young age is not the only reason people love these plants. Tropical Bonsai care is very simple. They are among the easiest plants to maintain and train and develope into something even a novice can be very proud of. They will thrive in a bright, mostly indirect light area, even tolerating some direct sun once they acclimate to it. Tropical Bonsai do need to be kept evenly moist at all times, but are forgiving if you slip a little once in a while. Almost any fertilizer sold for house plants will do and should your plant develop unwanted critters, insecticidal soap should clear that up. Like all bonsai, they like high humidity. Keeping the plants over a humidity tray is advisable, especially in the winter if you have dry heat in the house.
Other popular and easy species to bonsai are the Fukien Tea and the Chinese Elm. Again, these are trees that have small, delicate leaves and short, thick stems that resemble old, gnarly tree trunks. They also do well inside the house all year long in a bright, indirect lit area. These varieties are more likely to shed their leaves and may even go dormant in the winter than the Ficus or Schefflera, and if they do, you need to withhold some of the normal moisture and resist fertilizing until new leaves appear.
And then there are the blooming tropical bonsai, such as Bougainvilleas, Camellias, southern Azaleas and of course Serissas. The first three are the same plants that grow down south and make massive, outstanding floral displays that we often see in pictures of the old southern plantations. Like the Ficus, Scheffleras and Elms, bonsaing these plants is simply a process of restricting their roots and foliage growth. Serissas are a naturally small plant with tiny leaves and tiny little white flowers and rough, twisting stems. All of these varieties need good light, but the Bouganvillas do best in strong direct sun. The others can tolerate some early morning or late afternoon direct sun, but not the hot, midday sun. Humidity trays will keep your plants happy as well.